Towards the Normandy Beaches (via Cherbourg!)
You know how they say when sailing that you are always sailing towards, never to, your destination – well sometimes even that isn’t true. We left Lymington late on a very hot Friday afternoon for the cruise to the Normandy beaches, only to find that due to a combination of wind (or lack of, in the right direction) and tide, if we wanted to sail rather than motor all night that Alderney was a better destination. By the end of the first night watch we actually had enough wind to turn off the engine, which also happened to be just before I retired to my bunk, so I could look forward to an undisturbed 6 hours. The wind did die down considerably during the skipper’s watch, but very kindly he decided we would sail on slowly rather than disturb the sleeping beauties with the iron tops’l. By this time the decision had also been made to head for Cherbourg, not Normandy, because due to a misunderstanding, lack of communication, or call it what you will, we weren’t heading as directly to Alderney as intended. But it had been a good night’s sailing, with clear skies and lots of stars, and we tied up very early Saturday at the start of another glorious day.
After a good French petit dejeuner (croissants, French bread, cheese etc), we left Paul and Graham doing boaty things, whilst Sue, Peter, Jim and I headed up to the Roule Fort; a very steep climb, but the taxi managed it OK. The Fort now houses a very interesting museum covering the D Day Landings, with spectacular views across Cherbourg and the bay. A splendid meal at our secret Cherbourg restaurant rounded off the day.
We made a leisurely start on Sunday, and favourable winds saw us heading off, this time in the right direction, for an excellent sail towards St Vaast. However we were enjoying ourselves so much we continued past St Vaast, had a quick look at the Isles de Marcouf, and continued to Grandcamp Maisy a little further east. Being 6th June we were pleased to find the presence of some Americans in D Day style uniforms and vehicles, even though they were mostly far too young to have been there 66 years earlier.
A very early start Monday (5.35am!!!) and a brilliant spinnaker run east brought us to our anchorage off Arromanche just 4 hours later, where Paul ferried us ashore in the rib. The ladies set forth for a little retail therapy, leaving the men to tour another museum. Having managed to find a very rudimentary weather forecast, Paul decided that remaining at anchor overnight was probably not the most sensible idea, so a somewhat damper return in the rib to Wild Spirit was effected, and we made an excellent run, this time using the beautiful lightweight spinnaker, westwards to St Vaast.
Tuesday was declared a day of rest, and most of the crew took the amphibious bus across the oyster beds to Tatihou island. A visit to the top of the 17th Century Vauban tower, which involves a climb up the steep spiral staircase, is worth the effort for the views alone, but does upset the seagulls with their young nesting on the roof. We also walked down to the islet fort which is now home to a colony of egrets, and visited the maritime museum and gardens. Planning to take the ‘bus’ back, we found that everything had shut down for lunch, so we braved the Rhun, or causeway, back through the oyster beds, which is only uncovered at low tide. The tide not being quite low enough yet, after a quick recce we managed the walk in only about 6 inches of water. After some more exhausting shopping in St Vaast, we are now going to put on our glad rags for another night on the town; or failing that a good meal in the Fuchsia restaurant will suffice.
Wednesday
A bit of a strong aroma on board now – both Paul and Jim bought two rounds of very ripe Camembert from Monsieur Gosselin’s delicatessen. It is excellent, and we are doing our best to consume it before it leaves of its own accord!
From the weather forecasts for today we expected the winds to be building during the day, so set off early for a good day’s sailing. Alas, we were thwarted by the wind Gods, and had little wind all day. We hoisted the flying pig (asymmetric spinnaker) around 11.30, but couldn’t get her to set properly, until the skipper noticed our deliberate error (we try to keep him on his toes) – the clew and tack were the wrong way around! In the light winds it was easy to rectify, and we managed to sail for abou t20 minutes until the wind headed us; engines back on before lunch. Undaunted, we did another hoist mid afternoon, which lasted for about 90 minutes. The brief respite from engine noise was very welcome.
We overnighted in Bembridge, and made use of the local watering hole. Local except for the Marina residents that is. A very brisk 30mins walk across paths and a narrow causeway worked up a good thirst. It was quiz night at the pub, but our joint lack of knowledge on soap operas, fashion designers and so on meant we were wise not to get involved.
Now on the final dash back to Lymington. We have wind, and now, for the first time this trip, a big wave crashing across the boat and water down the hatch! In true heroic fashion Paul tried to stop the ingress by taking the force of most of the water. Glad I’m down here as I would have been the only one without full foulies on up there. All calm up top now, sailing nicely downwind under whites, and the kettle’s on. What more do we need!
Hopefully I speak for all when I say it’s been a great trip, with plenty of excellent sailing, good food and wine, and great company. A big vote of thanks to Paul from us all.
Now signing off,
Crew member Pam
© 2011 Wild Spirit
The race to La Trinite turned out to be classic. With 30 kts of wind on the nose for the start we had 3 reefs in and water coming over the top as we beat down the Solent. Whilst the forecasts had the direction correct the strength was higher than predicted and it only dropped a little as we hurtled down past the needles and out into the Channel.
Our tactics had been based on the forecast and like most other competitors we were aiming to get south of the Casquets traffic separation scheme before the wind dropped and tides swept us back up Channel. The wind dropped early and we decided to stay in mid Chanel instead; north of most of the shipping.
We progressed slowly down towards Ushant until in a complete absence of wind we were drifting backwards in 80 metres of water for several hours. As we were north of the main fleet we could not tell how they were doing and assumed they might have land breezes. Eventually the wind returned and we resumed progress beating down towards Ushant and out into the Atlantic swell before a long night of tacking in the company of 3 yachts that should, judging by their handicap, have been well ahead of us.
Once past the notorious tidal race of the Rade de Sein on the outside we settled down for a long beam reach in 15 kts of wind and a large swell. After 50 miles of this the wind began to drop and the spinnakers came up. The wind continued to drop but the tide was with us, could we make the finish in time for a beer?
About 7 miles south of the finish there were marks to pass and a course change through a narrow channel limited by rocks, the tide would carry us there but could we make it round the marks. With only 2 kts of wind our ability to steer was limited and we used several sail plans including goose winged with the asymmetric spinnaker before finally creeping past the marks and on to the final run in.
By now two things had become clear, firstly we weren’t going to make it for the beer and secondly the tide would turn against us we could drift across the line. With about 3 knots behind us we flew our biggest spinnaker on a lightweight sheet and with Pam trimming developed 2 knots of boat speed as we continued to creep the last few miles.
No-one saw the squall coming and it hit with 20 kts of wind and heavy rain from the port bows. We bore away and hoisted the whites but the spinnaker sheet detached and the kite was now streaming from the masthead. As long as the wind kept up we could make it and for the 15 minutes the squall lasted we sped over the ground at 8 kts whilst recovering the spinnaker intact. We crossed the line as the rain stopped and the wind dropped then felt our way up the river to Camaret in the early hours before rafting up at the Marina.
Other than the storm/ heavy weather sails we used every sail on board at some stage in the race and managed to make progress between 2 and 30 kts of wind to achieve 6th in class and beat our old rivals ‘No Fear’ in by several hours.
The hospitality in La Trinite exceeded the normally high JOG levels with a Mayoral reception (short speech lots of bubbly—vive le beaurocracy) followed by another at the Yacht club and then some moules frite before a couple more drinks on board.
I was genuinely surprised at how perky the crew were the next morning at 0730 as we set off for Loctudy about 60 Nm north. Perhaps the forecast of WSW F4 had cheered them, do they really have more faith in French forecasters them than the Met office? NW to WNW and lots of tacking. Clearly we weren’t going to make it for a good meal out so with Andy skippering one of his YM qualifiers he decided to press on through the nigh a sound decision as the weather wind was due to go further N and increase the next day.
About 0300 I was rudely awoken by the crew taking an emergency tack to avoid running aground, the chart showed 30 metres but the depth gauge less than one. The steering seemed heavy and the boat slowed, when we started the engine a worrying brown streak appeared. We turned around and the steering seemed better and the boat speed increased. Consulting the chart we were in an area where no trawling or anchoring was permitted and we concluded we had just hit a huge lump of kelp.
We tacked on through the night towards the Rade De Sein a notorious tidal race that requires careful timing, as we closed on it Yachts appeared from several directions and about 10 of us shot through as the tide turned but before the overfalls developed, immaculate timing after over 100 miles of tacking.
Our plan had been to continue up through the Chenal du Fourl but a weather forecast of NW 5 or 6 caused a rethink as this would make L’aberwrach our revised destination, uncomfortable even in the Marina. We turned east and soon arrived in Camaret where we ate well whilst being entertained by 3 bands including Breton pipes—like smaller bagpipes but more musical. The next morning we set off with a much more benign forecast and ran up the Chenal du Four under spinnaker. About 20 Nm later the wind dropped and we had to start motoring towards our revised destination of Weymouth.
For almost 12 hours we had little wind and then the fog closed and the Radar went on, this was the first time we had used it in conjunction with the AIS and the correlation was reassuringly accurate. This was Andy’s second qualifying passage as skipper for Yachtmaster and he was definitely experiencing different conditions. The fog burnt off and the wind picked up, we hoisted the lightweight spinnaker and sped towards Weymouth in up to 20 kts of wind arriving at 1700 on a splendid afternoon with the town packed with holiday makers drinking beer—when in Rome.
A 0600 departure after a heavy night is never the most popular but with a spring tide it had to be done and in glorious sunshine we sped back along the World Heritage site Jurassic coast and home to Lymington having sailed in everything short of a full gale and logging 859 miles.
Posted: December 22nd, 2009 under Uncategorized.
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